Building Tips and Tricks
Building Tips and Tricks
When you are deciding to build your scale model, you will have many kits and manufacturers to select from. You will also notice that not many of them are sold as Control Line Models. Don't let that throw you. RC kits have great detail and are easily converted.
Build the plane the same as you would as if it were an RC kit. Build according to the instructions and plans that come with the kit. You will need the Servos, Battery Pack, pushrods, clevis and linkages, the same as you would for RC flying and hook up. Try not to mix your servos. Maintaining consistency is important. If you need to mix servo types make note of the polarity. (information on servo connection). You will need an NYLON or COMPOSITE material Bellcrank, for the Elevator control. Instead of connecting the Elevator to a Servo, you will be connecting it to the Bellcrank, with lead out wires that exit the left side wing. (lead out information). The Elevator is the only manual control for the airplane, when you use the ScaleMaster Operating System. You will also need some "weight" (about 1/4 oz to 3/4 oz) in the right side wing. If you are going to use Rudder and/or Ailerons make sure that they are configured for "R" right bank or Right Rudder only.
Make your Wing Flaps, Retract Gear and Throttle the same as you would for
RC. If you have a military plane, you can also get scale looking bombs and bomb
racks. Follow the directions for installation according to the products
installation instructions and connect a servo for their operation.
The ScaleMaster has 4 Toggle Switches and 2 Proportional Lever controls to handle your
function operations. Flaps, for example would be done by a Proportional Lever
control..while Retracts would be a Toggle Switch operation. Retract Servos are
available from all of the major RC manufacturers...choose the one that is best for your
plane (space and movement). There are Linear Servos as well for tight areas.
We would not recommend Air Operated Cylinders for retracts. There is just too much
that can go wrong and getting the scale operation just right, can be a major problem.
There is also the storage space you would need for the air tank, to consider.
Retract Servos work the best for scale speed and
movement for gears.
With some imagination you could design your own assembly to make Sliding Canopy, moving Gun Turrets, Bomb-bay Doors, etc. I even know of one pilot who is making his Scale Pilot so that he waves to the spectators. Don't be afraid to go on line and seek advice or talk to your local hobby shop. In California, the Los Angeles area, you can contact "Robin" or "Ray" at Robins Hobbies 1822 West Glenoaks Blvd. Glendale, CA 91201 (818) 240-2093. Robin's carries a full line of products for RC Kits that can be converted to CL as well as RC Cars and Helecopters. The service in Robin's is excellent and they are always willing to help the novice builder/pilot. A Local Flying Club in your area is also a great place to share information and get help.
There is no limit to what you can do. You are only limited by your imagination.
As you progress, your skill in building and flying will improve and your choice of airplane will no longer be limited to single or double control or semi-scale or fixed gear models. Multi-function is the way of the future and the ScaleMaster CL Operating System will be leading the way.
Information on contest rules can be easily found at the AMA website. Both of these links are on the main page of this site.
SCALE STRUTS (tip)
Figure 1 is a standard Robart Scale Oleo (strut) Cover. Although, they have a great amount of detail and add a more realistic look to your gear, they are not true scale. If you are building a "Fun" Scale model, then by all means use the struts as they come, in the stock configuration. Using the cover on a "Stand-Off" or "FAI" Scale model, could hurt you if the judges look closely.
Most airplanes in the fighter category or general civilian aviation, due not have the (drag) torque links above the tire, on the main gears. The "scissors" are generally within the same diameter as the tire and fit into the wheel well. Nose Gears, due have the scissors above the tire.
Check your documentation completely to make sure how the strut is configured on the real airplane. With a little modification, you can get a more realistic strut and also use it to actuate the Strut Door.
Figure 2 shows a modified strut. I use 2 sets of struts to make 1 realistic pair. First I cut away the "hub" below the scissors, above the axel. I trim out the plastic to allow for the Piano Wire to accomodate the bend for the axel. I fill this in with Bondo and shape it to scale. This brings the scissors down to the approximate scale position. Next I fit the Wheel Assembly and Tire over the axel and mark the top of the tire on the strut cover. This mark is used as the bottom mark line for the scissor portion. Next, I take the 2nd pair of struts and cut the scissors portion away from the tube. Then cut the oleo cover so that the scissor portion fits, matching the bottom of the portion on top of the line I made. Then replace the upper part of the strut cover. The Scissor portion is placed at a 90o angle to the Wheel. Fill in any miss matched edges with balsa filler, Bondo, or epoxy.
Make a Gear Door pushrod from a piece of small brass or copper tube. The inside diameter should be just large enough to insert a cotter pin in each end. Silver solder the assembly together. The hole you drill in the 2nd scissor top, shold be large enough to accomodate the hub screw that comes with the struts. Insert the pushrod in the trimed out area and thread in the screw. Coffee can works well to make the doors and door bracket hinge and pivot hinge.